'Caves ouvertes' but not a sip of wine: Lavaux

When you approach Lavaux, a UNESCO World Heritage Site of 11th-century terraced vineyards lined up above Lake Geneva, it is like entering another world. Descending by car into an apparent nothingness, ahead of you is a curtain of varying hues of blue interjected by bright greens. We'd booked into our favourite B&B, Domaine du Burignon, a turreted building at the heart of a vineyard above St. Saphorin. I've written about the area before, so won't go into too much detail.

This was the weekend of Caves Ouvertes, when all Canton Vaud's wine cellars open for two days. Oddly, we didn't make it to a single one, but then, neither of us are big drinkers. Instead, we went to lounge in the B&B's garden, to walk among the vineyards, to watch the sun set over the lake. On our first day, we ascended via the bustling village of Chexbres (where we return - almost apologetically - time and again to Boulangerie Bidlingmeyer for freshly squeezed orange juice, white wine-and-cinnamon tarts and coffee eclairs) to the agricultural land behind the vineyards.

There, we meandered through meadows glowing with buttercups, beneath shaded woodland and past tumbledown farms. That afternoon, we ate pastries bought at Bidlingmeyer (obviously) while lying on sun chairs outside Domaine du Burignon and looking at the lake - totally hedonistic. We dined at Cafe de la Poste in Chexbres - local fare of meat or fish with chips, but spiced up with Portuguese influences. I had perch with chips, and Tim, the pork option. The best bit was the view: outdoor seating was arranged on a square that opened onto the lake.

The following day, we walked part of the wine route to Rivaz, west of St. Saphorin, tripping over our feet when becoming too distracted by that view. The villages are sleepy, centred around their wine-growing heritage. The area is south-facing, and finding shade is tricky - it is heavenly when a breeze sweeps in. I can compare it only to the Cote d'Azur, where gold meets turquoise and vistas look as if painted by hand. Go there to relax, to get away from it all, and, if you fancy it, drink wine to your heart's content.
© Emmy in Switzerland | All rights reserved.
Blog Layout Created by pipdig