The area is known as the Scottish Rivera - and, even if this might seem dubious given the often chilly temperatures, I could see why. Craggy cliffs dappled with coastal blooms play out against a dramatic seascape. Much of the landscape is estuarial, with mudflats meeting wet sandy beaches and grassy banks. Inland, rolling agricultural land is mowed by large herds of dairy cattle including Galloway, which are unusual with their broad white belts.
Meanwhile, the area is one of the least populated in Britain, so the sense of escapism is complete. A rocky cove (you find them all along this coastline) was a short stroll from the cottage. We went there each evening, to watch the waves roll in, marvel at the jellyfish strewn across the beach by the tide, peel our eyes to spot sea creatures in rock pools, and play with Merry, a cute collie-corgis cross (we think) who was allowed to roam the beach freely by his owner. The area is full of attractions, from castles to chocolate factories and exotic gardens, but our agenda was to relax.
Being by the sea was the order of the day. One of the loveliest walks in the area is the coastal stretch from Sandyhills to Kippford. From Sandyhills' vast beach of sand and mud flats laced with stake nets, the path leads along rambling cliff tops that give way to razor-sharp rocks. We passed a colony of cormorants and a Celtic hill fort. Rockcliffe is a charming clutch of white cottages arranged around a half-moon shaped beach overlooking Rough Island, a nature sanctuary accessible by a causeway. We called for refreshments at The Garden Room, which has an excellent selection of home baking, and enjoyed the sea breeze and utter peace and quiet. Kippford has an altogether different feel, with a stretch of houses facing a lively marina.
Other days involved a hair-raising walk at Balcary Bay along what was advertised as "danger cliffs", in such wind and rain that we felt we might be blown from the tops, and climbing the Merrick, at 843 metres the highest peak in the area. It's an attractive route from Loch Trool that opens onto views encompassing the Isle of Man and Arran. One day dawned gloriously sunny, and we went sea kayaking (me) and stand-up paddle boarding (Tim) on the west coast off Maidens. In the clear depths we could see jellyfish gliding around and sea kelp tying knots over the sea bed. Afterwards, we walked along the beach to Culzean Castle's grounds.
Here, from the shaded clifftop woodland above an azure sea, it felt as if we were in the groves surrounding St. Tropez. For Tim I think the highlight came on his birthday, with the delivery of a cake baked by local Annette's Baking in a Box. Oh so delicious, it was richly layered chocolate ganache topped with fresh berries. This is an area I could happily return to time and again. It was a treat to move slowly, watch seas birds, laugh at rabbits playing, potter around and eat lots of cake.
Another thing - the locals were so friendly. I must mention the newsagent in Castle Douglas (dubbed the area's "food town"), who laughed at Tim's sunburn contrasted with my being so pale, and said, "well, white is the new tan!", and the lady in the town's craft supplies shop, who had named her artist mannequin Mike and spoke to it like it was a child. Oh the scenery, the slow pace of life, the fact that the only timetable is that set by the tide ... As we munched fish and chips outside The Mariner in Kippford on our last day, a stiff breeze lifting our food from our forks, we looked out at the scenery and wondered to ourselves if this was perhaps heaven on earth.
